The following tips were posted to the Dear Jane list by
Tilde from Copenhagen.
I have written up some of my directions on triangles, since they seem
to be almost a collective ....
dread :-) They truly are not horrible to do. If you can do the blocks, you can do the triangles :-) When I -
who is not a seasoned veteran quilter - can do these
triangles, you can too.
To start more people doing the Triangles, I am going to
put myself forward, and post
to you all the way I have done the triangles I have finished so far.
I am not used to explaining how to sew, but I have tried. Those of you,
who have more experience in putting directions for sewing patchwork into words, please (pretty please :-) step forward and tell
people how to do this, in a way that can be
understood. I have done my best, but I am afraid that "my best" at times isn't very good. BUT at
least it is a start :-) Particularly with the
Triangle Challenge going on here in the Y2K, I would appreciate anyone who has other ways and ideas on how to do
these to write me with their
alternatives. That way I could slowly assemble a "Triangle Encyclopedia"
which would reflect other preferences than my own alone:-)
When reading my ... "directions" it will be a good idea if
you have the picture of the triangle in front of you, without it the
explanation is probably worse than no help LOL The very best general tip I can give for the triangles is
to number the pieces. Do so in the book, and give
every piece the same number on the fabric; be that
on the fabric itself or on the ironed-on piece of freezer-paper.
That way, the rate of "messing up" in sundry ways decline.
Many of the pieces in the individual triangles look symmetric on the top-bottom axis, but are not ! So, numbering the pieces
will tell you which end of the
piece is up and which is down; doing numbers in the same sequence in the book will ensure that you get them in the right
Further, before I make one stitch on any block or
triangle, I lay out all the bits in the
general pattern of the piece. This ensures that I have all the relevant bits, at least when I start. I lay out the pieces on a
piece of batting, and leave
them there while I piece. This makes it easier for me to immediately see which bit is next. These two steps taken together takes
less than 5 minutes, but have saved me (compared to
the first couple of goofs :-) many half
I handpiece, and I leave my freezer-paper templates on the piece until
it is sewn (in as much as it
will stay put :-), I also trace with a pencil, around the freezer-paper on the back, making sure that I do not
overstep the seam-allowance. Most
of the triangles are easy to do in sections or stripes. Finish row by row. Join the rows together. Finished :-) These rows can be
"straight set" or
"diagonal". Triangles can be "log
cabined" as well as can regular blocks :-) If you have made it too slim, add a strip to the two sides and trim. If
you look at the pic's in the
book, you will see that Jane clearly did this with several :-)
Another option with a "too small triangle" is to put a strip
on the base of it. That will
make it the right size as well. This works best with triangles that have one colour at the base, be it of Coloured fabric
or BF. Diamonds. Are neither more nor less difficult
to do in triangles than they are
in any other block. You have to be careful not to stretch them, that is "all". As I wrote above,
I leave my Freezer-paper templates on as I stitch, this helps me not to stretch the bias-seams. If you are
swearing at diamonds and
bias-seams, just think C-7 and M-3 and relax. I haven't made any triangles
that were worse than those two :-) Make a template
of the outline of the triangle (or better still, buy the DJ-tools,
but this was written before they came out :-). Make it sturdy and make it accurate. Include the 1/4" seam. When you have
finished sewing the triangle,
check that your finished piece matches the template.
When dealing with
a triangle that has strips on the side, cut those side-strips at least 1/8" larger than the book has them (preferably more
:-) When the baseline is in
one fabric, cut that one at least 1/4" "deeper" than the
book (adding seam-allowance on the base), when
neither is the case and your block is too small
: Add sides to the piece or add a bottom strip :-) To me it looks very much like this was what Jane did :-)
Finally, with triangles as with a lot of other Babies, a good
steam-iron can work wonders
when used judiciously ;-D ... well, not if you are using unwashed
fabric, but since I always wash my fabric and then iron it (with a steam-iron :-) before putting my scissors to it, this works
well. I have just finished pressing and measuring
all my triangles (Jan 4, 2000 :-) and after
heavy use of the iron the bunch of "redo from scratch" sank from
14 to 2 !!! Now, that is good
news, isn't it :-)
Those were my general tips-and-hints on triangles. Short descriptions
of how I did individual
triangles will follow :-)
Tilde in Copenhagen
Remember to read this with your book and pictures at hand !
- Spanish Moss
Very simple to do. You can paper-/ foundation piece it, but my guess
is it will take an awful
lot of small bits of foundation. I cut the strips squarely,
waiting to trim to proper triangle shape until the block was finished,
and then sewed the 2-colour strips together. Then the 2-colour strips
and the backing strips. Finally the top and bottom.
- Australian Pines
This one I Paper-pieced in 2 sections. Choose which of your
sections you want the central stem to go with and then piece as
desired. Again I did not cut
the outer edges of backing slim. I cut them wider than was required and trimmed after everything was
sewn together. If you do not like paper-piecing,
just sew each side separately Join them to the centre. Add
This is a row-by-row triangle. This is also a triangle where it is
very important that you keep track of which bits
belong with which row. That will save
you endless trouble :-) Do the six "striped" rows separately
Join them to each other and
the plain stripes.
- Bennington Cross
Another row-by-row triangle. You can do the bottom section (below
the horizontal stave on the cross), either as one
(pieced) triangle with sides added
(much like the sides found in other triangles, eg TR 6, 11, 13 etc :-), or you can do it in two rows. Which ever :-)
- Michigan Dunes
Two major sections. One top, one bottom. Make the bottom section as
a row-by-row piece. Could also be paper-pieced.
- Carla's Candle Flame
Cut the top section of background fabric with at least 1/2 " seam-allowance. Applique the
diamond and the melon to it using your favourite method of applique
(don't say "I haven't got one" ;-) Press and trim top to "desired size" :-) Then
sew the diamonds, row-by-row. Add the rows.
- Norway's Fjord
Here, as in many other triangles, the "row-by-row" are
not to be seen as "straight", but as
diagonal lines. If you look at the block from the top,
you sew the side-piece of background to one side of the
"square" (NB, this is
one of the tricky squares, since it isn't square. Remember to mark carefully what is up and what is down on this one, a
number usually does the trick for me :-). Then you
sew one (only one !) of the underlying "legs" to it. Lay
aside. Middle-section. Applique the back-ground
fabric diamond to the apocopated, coloured
diamond, or piece them together adding the necessary seam-lines. Taking
care that the remaining "leg" from the top section goes on the correct side of your diamond, sew that one on. Add a
below "leg" to the piece, opposite to
the position of the "top-leg". Now you have two diagonal strips done. Do the bottom section
by piecing and appliqueing either side of the cone.
Remember that one side has to have a top-piece more than the other,
since you want it to fit your two diagonal
stripes. Add both sides to the centre cone.
Sew the three diagonal strips together. Sew the side-sashing on. Add top.
For those of you that dread not applique of diamonds. Applique the
lot :-) For the rest of us
: Make seam-lines around all the diamonds. Make the seam-lines
in a way that is compatible with the "diagonal-stripes" used on the above triangle. Piece the
stripes. Applique the bottom shape on, use plenty
of below seam-allowance.
- Needle's Point
A bit like the technique you use when making LeMoyne stars etc.
Inset seams. Don't sew into
seam-allowances. That isn't difficult when you are hand-piecing.
You can do it by making very oddly shaped "diagonal stripes", which is what I did. Just remember NOT to sew into seam
- Precious Gems
Another diagonal-stripe piece. But with a slight twist. Again you
start from the top, but on this one, you don't lay
aside the individual strips. You
sew them together as you go, almost in a braid-fashion. (Clear as mud, I know, I'll try to elaborate, but
don't get your hopes up too high). Sew top three
pieces together. Add one Background-Fabric (BF) "leg" to one
side. Take the other leg, sew it to the next
coloured bit. Join the two sections. Add
another leg on one side of this. Set aside. Join next leg to next coloured bit. Add this to the already finished section.
That is the general idea.
When you get lower, first the "central coloured bit" has to be pieced, and in the last run it's
the leg that has to be pieced. The only (not so major)
difference between this block and other "diagonal-row" blocks
is, that you cannot sew and set aside your strips and then add them to
each other. You have to sew them together as you
Another "Diagonal stripes" for the upper section. The
lower is a straight row.
Piece central diamond. Add "legs" to opposite sides. Make the
top row. Join to centre.
Make the below pieced "leg" add to centre. Piece bottom row. Piece the two bits.
- Jane's Oak
Applique your heart out :-) Remember the extra wide seam-allowance on your BF and wait to trim until
after you have finished the applique and the pressing.
- Eiffel Tower
Row-by-row, straight. Start by appliqueing the melon-shapes to the relevant triangles (cut them a bit
large and trim when the applique is done, before the piecing starts). Note that the bottom triangle in
Jane's quilt is actually pieced ! Also note, that
both melons have sharp edges in one end, soft
in the other. The sharp edges are there to fit into the triangle. Piece row-by-row, straight. Add the
rows. That was my input on the top-row of
triangles. Now, let's have a word from the
rest of you triangle piecers, with wonderful short-cuts and better descriptions than what I can do :-)
As is the case with the other "Triangle Tips", it is a good
idea to bring out the book and
look at the triangle when you attempt to read my suggestions.
If you don't they have a tendency to become gibberish :-) Also.
I would love for anyone who did any of these triangles differently to write it up and send it to me, they will be incorporated in
the next edition :-)
Left Side Triangles.
LS-1 : Nancee's Fantasy
This is possibly one of the worst triangles to make a
"how-to" on. I am - to put
it bluntly - stumped. It isn't quite as bad as it looks, but it is a very good idea to add some seam-lines to the BF (background
fabric, I'll use this
abbreviation throughout :-) that is around the central
I furthermore made an extra seamline to make the bottom
of the "corn-cob" into a
separate triangle (look at the photo, you can see that's what Jane did :-) If you don't add seamlines, you
have some messy applique to do. Disregarding what
you do, you have to do inset seams on this one, meaning : no sewing into seam-allowances! What I did was
Joining the pieces that make the central "corn-cob" + the sides
of this, including the triangles on the sides. Make each side of the corn-cob separately and join to the
corn-cob. Add the top triangles. Make
the top. Join the two pieced pieces.
LS-2 Barb's Diamond
The picture in my book is wrong, it is not of this triangle. To get
the right bits coloured re. BF, refer either to the
cover of the book, or the picture
on p. 6, either will give you the right distribution :-) Remember to number or otherwise mark your bits on this one, it is NOT
as symmetrical as it looks :-) Start with central diamond. Piece the
bits that are supposed to go on the upper outside of this diamond. Join them to central diamond. Piece
bottom outside bits Join to the above. Piece
bottom, join to the others Finally : Applique
diamond to top part OR Add seamlines and piece the
top-part (what I did, I can't get the hang of appliqueing 4 sharp ends on one and the same small piece,
so I piece instead :-) Join
top to bottom.
LS-3 Connie's Brownies
Start by cutting the two pieces that have a melon appliqued to it. Remember to cut them with 1/2"
seam-allowance or more. Applique does "draw" the fabric
in slightly, so this is important to remember (for all you applique-geniuses
out there, it *is* necessary to remind applique-beginners like myself about these things :-) Applique
the melons. Press and cut pieces down to correct size. The
lower middle part of the block looks like a candy in paper to me, so this is what I'll describe it as :-) Piece
one side of candy, including the outside snippet. Piece
other side of candy, without "candy" itself, only with snippet. Join the latter to bottom triangle Add
the former to the now existing piece. Piece upper
middle part of block (1-2-3) Join top to this Join the two parts of triangle.
LS-4 Virginia's Kite
If you like applique this is a fun triangle to do. If you detest
applique it is no fun at all ! Cut BF of bottom part of the triangle, remember the extra
big seam-allowances (min. 1/2" It is important,
if you were around I would show you
why :-) Applique the 2,5 shapes to the BF (2 and a
half because it is only the lower part
of the top "kite" you need to applique, but if you actually like appliqueing applique the lot :-) Press
and cut down to size. Join outside top BF-triangles
to your appliqued piece. Join the strips on the top
to themselves and each other. Join to bottom-part. Finished :-)
LS-5 Olympic Torch
This is a bit of a stinker :-) But take heart, it is one of the worst triangles, and if you have done M-3 or C-7 it isn't as bad
as all that. Think positive :-) You will have
wonderful practice for that Mariner's Compass block
you have put off for a very long time :-) With this one it's accuracy that carries the day. The 5 bits with sharp,
tapering points are mostly a
question of taking those extra 15 seconds at every step of the way. 15 seconds extra to sharpen your pencil before drawing
around every template. 15 seconds extra to make sure
that the 3 points at the sharp end of
every tapering-piece meets when piecing and 15 seconds
extra when pressing it at the end to make sure they stand out the right way :-) Now, that wasn't a lot of extra time, was it
? LOL Apart from that it's
straight strip piecing. Four stripes. I made
seamlines on the top, since I (as you will all know by now) am not particularly fond of appliqueing, particularly not at sharp
points :-) You have to either
applique or sew a very curved seam on the strip that is next to the top. What I did was make the strip, elongating each
bit, as if it actually did go to the top line of the
strip, and then applique the half-circle on this. Apart from that, it's straight sewing, just remember the
extra 15 seconds at each step
LS-6 Susie Q
Start with appliqueing the melon to the top (remember the extra wide seam-allowance), press and cut down to size. Then piece
each horizontal strip on its own. Join
LS-7 Sally's Steeple
I added seamlines to the top bit, making it into 3 pieces, but you can applique the triangle on the BF, remember that you don't
have to applique the bottom of
the triangle, that will be taken care of when you join the strips
in the end :-) Applique the large and the two small
melons on the centre-piece. I have fumbled my way
into a way of applique that works for a non-appliquer like me. What I do to ensure that all the bits go on the
right place is :
I very carefully make a Freezer Paper template of
the Background (!), which I iron
to the right side of the background fabric, using some elbow-grease to make it stick :-) That way I can
place my applique pieces with better accuracy and
without fear of pencil marks that will show even after washing :-) Only drawback is that it doesn't really work on larger
pieces, only on small one-colour
ones like Jane :-) Back to block : Applique the
lower central piece. Press and trim down to size. Join the 2 pieced strips to themselves (straightforward). Join the strips.
LS-8 - Northern Lights
With this one it's a good idea to use the punctuated lines when
piecing. If you do that,
however, you have to join the top-bit before appliqueing the melons unto it, but still, it is (imao :-) a good idea.
What you do to ensure that the top bit doesn't
shrink too much during applique is, to make extra
seam-allowances on all outside edges. What is important is the angle on the piece between appliqued and pieced, and as long as
that is firm, and you don't
sew into the seam-allowance there, you should be in calm waters :-) If you use the punctuated lines,
it is fairly simple to piece (and applique :-) I altered the seamlines on the middle bit, however, to
sharpen the point of the
central arrow (making it into an arrow), and consequently also changing the outside of the CF strips that go on each side of the
Applique, applique, applique, applique. I did the circle as pieced and then reverse appliqueing it to the
bottom BF, after which the other shapes were appliqued
on. I am still undecided as to whether circles look best being appliqued
on or reverse appliqued. I have tried both and I think that if you applique using a ladder stitch, reverse applique carries
the day. If you use the
"ordinary" applique stitch, I think ordinary applique does, but
that is only my preferences. Barb in Minnesota wrote :
I don't know about wine but I was wondering if Jane had a bad day when she did tri LS-9, the Friday
challenge from last week. This is a strange arrangement,
even the background is a puzzle. With a little hindsight, I do wish I had reverse appliqued this project.
LS-10 Megan's Cathedral
Fairly straight forward. Only tricky part is the bottom, where you
have to applique the outside
triangles on. I made an extra seam-line however. This triangle looks really good if you find a piece of fabric
where the "candles" or
"windows" in the almost-bottom strip have the same stripy
Jane in INDY wrote :
I fp the sections. It looks just like a cathedral.
LS-11 Kathy's Cake
This one is straightforward to piece. The tiny melon is **** to applique, but just about possible. With regard to the rest of the strips : This is one of the
blocks where it is extremely
important ot mark which bit goes into what row. If you don't you will be doing a lot of frog-stitching. It
is also a block where extra seam-allowance on the bottom strip is a good idea :-)
LS-12 Button Hook
Now, here is something unusual :-) On this one I deleted (!) some seam-lines, making the bottom triangle into one triangle,
rather than a series of strips. But, otoh, I added
some seamlines to the top part, making it
into a pieced diamonds thing. Again, very important to mark up/down and right/left on your individual
bits. Karan's N-S-E-W works here, as does a numbering
of the bits, both in the book and on your templates (same numbers on both is to be preferred ;-) Disregarding
what you do, the triangle is done in some kind of diagonal strips.
If you maintain Brenda's lines it is straightforward, strip by strip,
join strips, finished. If you make the bottom into
one triangle (as Jane had it :-), the easier part is
to start by piecing the two strips that go on one outside of said triangle. Join them to each other and the triangle. Now,
piece the other side, but here, extend your piecing to include all of the 4-patch that stands on point on the triangle. Join
the two sides. Add the top BF triangle that will
make your piece into an awkward 4-corner thing
:-) Make the "almost on the top" strip. Join to the others Make top
diagonal-strip, either as piecing or as applique. Join
to its sisters.
Applique 3 panels (remember the extra seam-allowance on all 4 sides) Press and cut down to size. Piece 3
pieced panels. Join the panels
Another batch of triangle tips. As is the case
with the other tips I have sent : Read my suggestions with your book in front of you. Makes the directions much easier
to understand. AND : Anyone
with other suggestions : Please (pretty please :-) step forward.
Your way of doing it will be incorporated into the next "edition" :-)
I'm sorry I'm not better at describing how I do the things, but for
what it's worth, this is the best I can do :-) Finally. I don't have paper-piecing patterns for the ones I
paper-piece. I mark in the
book, with a coloured pencil, where the paper-foundations should end
and start, and then draft it unto crummy-quality fusible web (or non-fusible
if you prefer that). Crummy quality to keep it light, web because
I don't have to pick it off the block afterwards :-D
Hugs to you all,
Tilde in Copenhagen
- Rosemary's Rainbow
Paper-pieced. One section. Very simple. Can also be pieced the
usual way. Just note that
the strips are not the same width, so number carefully :-)
- Leigh's Woods
Row-by-row, straight. For each row : Start by piecing the central triangles(or almost triangles). Add Background-fabric
sides. Piece the rows together.
- Attic Window
I modified this rather heavily, adding the triangles that have
become lost in the pattern
as it is now, compared to the picture of the block. Even as it is, remember to mark the bits clearly. The diamond and
"square" are NOT top-bottom
symmetrical. Apart from that, it can be made in diagonal stripes and then pieced, stripe by stripe.
- Candy Dish
Very simple. Basically it's Flying Geese without straight edges :-) Apart from the two pieced triangles
at the bottom sides, it can be paper-pieced in one section. Or - naturally :-) - pieced without
- Gay's Glory
One of the ... nasties. Not because it is difficult - it isn't :-) -
but because this is a block where proper marking
of which bit goes where is a decisive
factor in how it turns out. Note that the diamonds on the two top rows of diamonds are not symmetrical in the right-left
axis. Also, note that the
point of the diamonds does not align. They are not supposed to !!! What is more, the points on the
bottom row of diamonds does not align with the points on the bottom row of triangles. You can stretch
the diamond-row to fit the
triangle-points, but it does not turn out well. How
I came to be this smart LOL ? I did what I'm warning you against :-) SO. Mark your bits well on this one. Sew stripe by
stripe. Join stripes.
- Frank's Rickrack
A slight altering of seamlines and pieces in the way they go
between bottom and
top-section makes it possible to paper-piece this one in three sections:
One top, one side, one side including centre. If you don't want to brave that: Piece the two triangle sides separately Add them to
the centre. Add the
top-central triangle to this. From now on you are
on your own :-) Unless you do like I did, altered the pattern. I'll try to explain how (this also holds true
for if you paper-piece :-) Lay
your ruler on the "edge" of the top-triangle on the centre/bottom-part, so that the ruler also aligns with the below coloured
triangle. Make a new line,
continuing this line, going to the side of the triangle. Do the same on the other side. On the coloured bits in the
top-section. Elongate the top-line down to meet
your new seam-line. Doing this (according to my guesstimate)
makes it not only easier to piece, it also makes it slightly closer to the original as it is in the picture :-) If you do this (if you understand my directions at all
:-), you can now piece a triangle-leg to one side
of your finished centre-bottom piece. Then piece
the top-section, with the requisite "other leg", and piece the
two diagonally :-)
- Cheryl's Clown
I also modified the seam-lines on this one, for easier piecing.
Most notably, I made the central, coloured
"arrow-shape" into a top-triangle, and two bottom triangles. The top-triangle centres it's own
row, the bottom-triangles become parts of the
(pieced) sides on the below row. If this is done,
it is straight row-by-row. Adding of rows. That's it. If
not. I'm stumped :-)
Another one where altering of seamlines might be a good idea. I
added a few on the
"non-star" at the centre of this one so I didn't have to
applique triangles to the M-shaped bits. Apart
from that there is the centre-piece to join.
Add bottom triangles to that one. Make the "strips" above and below centre-piece. Join all strips
to each other and to centre-piece.
- Sue's Garden
If you like applique or curved piecing, this is a wonderful block
to do. If you don't (I
don't), it's awful. All the same. Piece the individual pieces of cake. Piece the cake-halves with background-fabric or
applique the cake-halves to background-fabric
strips, row by row. Piece rows together.
- Nicholas' Diamond
Lots and lots of inset seams here. Don't sew into seam-allowances
:-) Apart from that, it's a block that is ****
to describe "how-to-do" :-O I changed
the seamlines for two bits, to enable me to piece it more regularly
in diagonal stripes. They are the two BF-bits on either side of the middle coloured diamonds (if this makes sense to
anyone :-) That way the bottom
part of the "half-star" could be pieced as triangles that
could be added to the rest
with a straight seam, rather than an inset. What I
did was, I pieced what I call the centre diamond from four smaller diamonds. Then did "diagonal stripes" with the
top-section, adding the "big centre
diamond" to it. Then what had become the two side triangles that formed the "half-star", and finally the bottom
section. I always try to make for
straight seams when the sections of a block or a triangle is joined, and this is one of them
A triangle for diagonal strips. Do the top section "on its
own" and the bottom strip as well. Mark the
rest of the triangle in diagonal lines, piece each diagonal strip separately Join the diagonal strips
to form the centre tartan
pattern. Add top and bottom.
- Jessie's Stained Glass
If you follow the pattern in the book, it is really very simple to
do. Piece the elongated
9-patch diamond. Fill out with background-fabric, add bottom strip. If you want to revise it to
be more like Jane's on the picture, I'm sorry, you are on your own :-) I am unable to describe what to
do there, since it for a
great part depends on just how you revise it. I did revise it, enlarging
the bottom diamond (and appliqueing it on, partly anyway), and adding
a BF-strip to the triangles that go on the bottom end of the diamond. Revising it makes it more difficult to piece.
Very straightforward. The "magic" of this one will come
from the fabric you choose.
Piece the central diamond strip. Add top and bottom. Add side strips.
Piece top-piece. Join.
- Tennessee Valley
Paper-pieced this one. Moved seamlines in the middle to go like a
braid rather than meeting in the middle.
Starting with bottom triangles this makes it
go together in one piece !
- Cherokee Lee
A Diagonal-stripes type triangle. Divide it into two major parts
in line with the longest diagonal strip. Start
by piecing the top and then down one leg.
Piece the entire central section in diagonal rows. Add the rows. Add the shorter of the two long diagonal strips and the
BF-strip to that. Join the
two major sections.
This is one that people go into pre-piecing cramps over. There is no need. Particularly not if you have
done all the blocks :-) Top-part is appliqued. If
you want to piece it, draw the requisite seamlines for "diagonal-stripes" and make it in two bits. Centre. Epicentre :-) Make a
Pinwheel-block. The rest of the "epicentre" is basically the
same technique as the one used for I-5, Maria's
Majesty (centre), E-11, Wagon Wheel and M-7,
Junko's Rose Garden. One note of caution : Mark what is the inside and what is the outside of the four melons ! They
do not have the same curve on both sides !!! What
worked for me was to applique the 4 melons on
(in this case) the Pinwheel and then reverse-applique the circle around Pinwheel and Melons. Before that can be done, you have to
piece or applique the bottom
triangles on the centre. The last step is to measure how wide your
bottom strip has to be in order to make the triangle the right size. This is definitely a "Finished is better than
Perfect" Triangle, at least to me
- Dutch Apron
I Paper-pieced this, in two sections. Moved one seam-line close to
the top so it became two
diagonal (wiiiiiide :-) strips.
- Geisha Girl
Top consists of straight strips, lower part of diagonal stripes.
This is one of the blocks
where up-down, right-left is extremely important to keep track of. Start by appliqueing the melon
and then make the centre square. Not difficult,
just some tiny pieces there. Sew the bottom triangles to that one.
You might want to make the bottom triangles from two pieces of fabric, rather than the one that is found on the pattern. Jane
made hers out of two pieces.
Sew one leg to one side of this finished bottom part. Take
the upper almost-but-not-quite square (and not quite symmetrical, remember to mark your bits :-) and sew "the other
leg" on that one. Add the two
top triangles. Piece the two diagonal strips together. Piece the two next straight rows. Piece it all together.
- Tumbling Blocks
This is a block where you really get to practice your inset seam technique. Nothing but
(practically). Two very, very important things to remember with this one :
- Mark your bits of fabric with regard to up-down, right-left (I do
it by numbering them).
- Don't (for Heaven's sake) sew into seam-allowances. Apart from that, what I did was that I started by
piecing the central "Christmas-ornament",
that is, the three complete diamonds, four almost squares
and two almost diamonds. Added the small-bits to the sides of that. Then I joined the two sets of bottom triangles and
added those. Laid it aside and did the top (the
square is not square !). Joined the top and bottom
- Fedelia's Hearts
Applique to your hearts content :-)
- Love Forever
Same as above :-)
- Danish Delight
(Wrongly named LOL.) There are others I like a lot better ;-D Another one with "not as symmetrical as the
look" pieces. Row-by-row piecing. Start with
the top. Then make the central triangle in the central strip. Can be done row-by-row too. Add BF- sides. Same
procedure on the bottom strip. Start with the
square, rectangles and bottom triangle. Add side-triangles.
Add BF sides. Piece the rows.
- Grandma Nan's Bodice
If you like appliqueing, applique the centre triangle to the
curved triangle. If you don't like appliqueing
sharp points, piece the curved triangle with the
centre one in it. Add the curved sides. Make the next two strips. Sew the strips together.
- Hills of Jerusalem
Piece the individual strips (diagonally). Piece the centre,
row-by-row. Add the sides.
Add the bottom.
- Linda's Church in the Valley
You might want to dispense with some of the seamlines on this one,
and add a couple on the
bottom. I did :-) The way the pattern is drawn (which isn't an exact copy of Jane's triangle, but close :-) you can
start by joining the centre
triangles, add the strips around it, first the coloured ones on the "top"triangle, then the BF triangles to the
sides of those strips, then the BF-
on the "bottom" triangle, then the "side-triangles"
below. Your centre piece is
now finished. At the bottom strip, I added a
couple of seamlines as well, to make for good piecing, one on the central V-shaped BF-strip so that it
becomes two strips rather
than one upside-down V :-) Apart from that, it is straight piecing.
- Marlene's Pirouette
I pp'ed this one in two diagonal sections, adding one seamline on
either side of the small triangles at the bottom
to make for easier piecing. If you don't
like pp'ing, do it in sections and remember to keep track of "up-down" and "right-left" of the central almost-square